In business, as in his personal life, Isaac Sultan Cohen has always been one to swim against the tide. In the world of philanthropy, in which Cohen is exceptionally active, he has always sought to support up-and-coming causes that are not yet getting the attention they deserve. In collecting, his other passion, although many a collector pursues household-name luxury brands, Cohen has always been a man whose focus was independent artisans. In the world of horology, these are the watchmakers who craft pieces independently and with attention to individual pieces, as opposed to brands who focus on mass-produced status symbols.
“For me, collecting has and never will be simply about expanding my watch collection. It’s about being a part of something greater and, specifically, supporting the survival of traditional craftsmanship in a time when our society is dominated by corporate conglomerates,” begins Cohen.
Cohen explains his fixation on independent watchmaking as coming from the authenticity that it represents. “When you own a Philippe Dufour, an F.P. Journe, or a Daniel Roth, the three independent watchmakers I follow most closely, you’re not just wearing a watch. You are becoming part of a journey that began way before you and will complete years after you are no longer here. What a privilege to be wearing years of dedication, passion, and human touch,” Sultan Cohen explains. “It is an honor to be the custodian, and I use that word on purpose, of the works of people who have dedicated their lives to perfecting their craft.”
It is well known that independent watchmakers create watches in exceptionally limited quantities, with many master watchmakers themselves personally assembling each movement by hand. This is a dedication to quality and precision that collectors, such as Cohen, value deeply and are happy to pay a premium for.
“Once a company ramps up production, I simply lose interest. There’s a soul in independent watchmaking that you cannot find when looking at the big companies. Can you imagine knowing that a single pair of hands, belonging to a leading person in his field, dedicated years to work on your watch from beginning to end?” says Cohen.
It is not only through collecting that Cohen supports independent watchmakers. He is also a staunch advocate for a greater appreciation for their craftsmanship. In this regard, Cohen says, “I am a firm believer that collectors need to do more than simply buy; If you are blessed with success at your profession, then it is easy to spend money. What collectors need to be doing, however, is also to contribute to the longevity of this art form.”
A unique aspect that Cohen enjoys about collecting the works of independent watchmaking is the close relationship that he has been privileged to develop with the watchmakers themselves. “If I buy a Rolex, even a custom one, it is almost impossible for me to develop any kind of relationship with the artisan who spent months crafting my watch. That is just how it is with large luxury brands. When I collect independent artisans like Philippe Dufour and François-Paul Journe, who I know for a fact are personally involved in their creations, I can see their workshops, understand their vision, and even communicate with them. This adds a really important dimension of meaning to my collection,” expresses Cohen.
As for the future of independent watchmaking, Cohen is a realist. “Unfortunately, there aren’t enough people like me who have a firm appreciation for this art form over mass production. It is sadly like that in many creative industries. People want quick, cheap and now.” Looking ahead, though, Cohen is hopeful but realistic about the ongoing challenges that independent watchmakers face. “I like to nevertheless be positive but still err on the side of caution. All creative industries are seeing pressure from mass production and commercialization. But as long as there we have people willing to invest to keep this art form alive, independent watchmaking will survive.”
To Isaac Sultan Cohen, education is an important factor and specifically, helping new collectors understand why independent watchmakers matter. “It’s easy to buy a name,” he finishes, “but it takes true passion to invest in the people behind the watches.”